A working girl's Bandra

Abundant pubs and cafes, quaint churches and a whole lot of shopping: these are just the few of the things I didn't quite experience while living in Bandra. A working girl's Bandra is slightly different from the picture we usually see, and it looks something like this:

At the start of the year, I lived as Paying Guest near Hill Road, famed for its cheap shopping, something that I never had a chance to sample. I did, however, watch other people, hoards of them, enjoy themselves as they shopped for brightly coloured tank tops, outrageously kitschy flip-flops and the infamous 'Being Human' tee-shirts, on my way home from work. This was my life in Bandra, enjoying the sights of what other people experienced, and I'm not complaining, it was invigorating in its own way. I'd head out every morning to take in a heady floral fragrance emanating from the pretty little bungalows all around only to be slapped in the face by the fumes of an auto rickshaw zooming past. "No problem, enjoy the moment" I'd say, and smile and walk on.

On the short walk to the main road, I'd encounter charming dogs being taken around usually, not by their 'master' but by their dog-walker. Being a dog-fan, these little guys (or girls, it was difficult to tell without proper inspection) would make my day as they passed me by with a goofy grin on their face, tails wagging happily in the air while sniffing every inch of the sidewalk in a crazed fervour. That was of course until I'd inevitably step into some dog poo and have to go back to change my footwear, resulting in me being late for work. "All worth it", I'd tell myself.

On my way back from office, if I wasn't watching the frenzy of Hill Road from the backseat of the cab, I'd watch the well-groomed little old ladies and the chivalrous looking old men as they leaned on each other and made their way to church with a quiet dignity. There was always an intrigue about the looming edifices of churches, these sacred houses of God that gave off an air of old-world beauty. More than just places of worship, churches in Bandra seemed to be communal hubs, thriving with the spirited activity of their inhabitants. 

Other communal hubs that I missed out on were the ubiquitous cafes and restaurants that plague Bandra like a friendly virus. I did make it to a few of them over weekends but there were too many to take in all together during my short stay. I did notice that though numerous, each cafe usually managed to maintain a different vibe, whether it was the clientele, the food, the service or the decor, they all seem slightly differently, yet gave off this 'Bandraness' about them that was hard to define and noticed mostly only by 'non-Bandraites'.

When not at a cafe, my weekends would be spent either at Pune, or hidden away in my room at my 'PG accommodation', another Bandra institution. Many friends had advised me against staying in a PG place owing to the "overly-strict landladies". "They'll keep a curfew, they'll pry into your private life and most importantly, no boys will be allowed to visit you!". My parents, on the other hand, thought these to be the best reasons to have me stay as a PG. Not really bothered about either side of the argument, I took up a place that suited me best because of its location, the facility of an all-day maid and gave me two of the cutest dogs in the world as roommates. I was one of the lucky few who didn't have to stick to a curfew, my landlady did however, go into my room whenever she felt like 'tidying up' and there were strict rules for using the kitchen. Even though I had my own room, it didn't feel like I had much privacy, yet I stuck to my place. At the end of a long, tiring day, it was nice to have a 'home' to come back to and fellow PG girls will understand the importance and bliss of such a feeling.

Looking back on my stay in Bandra, it feels like it might've been slightly uneventful and I might've not experienced all that there was to experience there. However, I did see a lot of interesting sights that will always make me want to go back, and in that way, I'm glad to have experienced a different yet intriguing working girl's Bandra.

Also posted on: Culture Coyote

To cab or not to cab, it's not an option for me

The cabs in Mumbai, what can I say? They're loud, they're proud and they're here to take you around. It's been almost three months now since I moved to this metropolis and that means I've taken approximately 150+ cab rides in this city.

I tried the train thing. It didn't go well. My borderline agoraphobia screamed out 'they're touching me, they're touching me' enough times for me to cave after just one uneventfully scary train journey (That's another un-story for another day I'm afraid).

A pretty psychedelic cab seat cover

Coming back to the cabs, they're now my one and only means of transportation in the city. I take them to work and back everyday and more often than less, something interesting manages to happen. The first thing that steals my attention always is the cab interiors. They come in all colours, fabrics, designs, states of un-hygiene and levels of stinky-ness. The seat covers vary from psychedelic prints, to carpet designs, to the more adventurous animal prints and there are even 'suave' ones made of velvet! The most annoying ones however, in my opinion, are the faux leather ones that heat up like an effing oven in the Mumbai heat! I get that this is the cab driver's baby in which he spends most of his day but please, spare a thought for my buttox, it really gets too hot to handle during the never ending rides! If the hot ass problem wasn't weird enough, there's the crazy blue/pink/red lights that some cabs have in them. I mean, what's with leaving these lights on during the day? It makes me feel like I'm in some strange 80s disco vortex gone wrong! Please sirs, as a request, spare a thought for the planet (and accept the death of disco) and turn the lights off during the day at least! After all these maniac thoughts have managed to distract my mind, I notice the (usually) numerous stains and holes on the seat covers. I also manage to spare a thought for the poor food (at least that's what I think that is) droppings on the floor vying for my attention. I can't bear to imagine whose boogers I must be sitting in and whose sweat I must be smelling! So, in order to distract myself, I usually make a few phone calls during the ride.

However, it's hard to concentrate on the conversation because it is now the cab driver's turn to grab my attention with his astounding driving skills. I've seen everything from wannabe F1 drivers to poor old men who are so tired that they actually fall asleep while waiting at a signal! There's also the question of the roads, the conniving drivers who see me for the sucker I am will try to take me the long way round but I've learnt my lesson and realised that sometimes you just have to fight your battle and be the GPS guide throughout the journey. One slip up might make the difference between paying what you ought to and having to shell out your spare coffee money.

The last thing I'm usually vary about is the fare in itself. If you don't ask to see the card, chances are, you'll most likely be conned out of a few extra bucks. At times, not having change becomes a problem and you'll end up being yelled at for forgetting to mention it at the beginning of the journey. There was one time when a cab driver even had the audacity to suggest that I was cheap because I didn't want to let go of the Rs8 he owed me in change! All in all, it's not all that easy when you have to do it everyday.

Reading this over, it looks like I've complained a lot about the Mumbai cabwallas and that's probably because ranting just comes easy. I must also mention how much I appreciate and admire these men. If it weren't for them, I'd probably be shelling out more money to see a shrink and get over my train phobia. But seriously, they battle the heat, manage demanding customers and manoeuvre the not-so-easy streets of Mumbai to put food on the table and a roof over their families' heads. It's not only commendable, it's endearing. So, as much as they trouble me sometimes by taking me the long way, charging me extra or just refusing to go, I must say kudos to the intriguing and entertaining Mumbai cabbies!

First impressions

This post is long over-due, almost two months over-due. I registered this blog hoping writing regularly about my experience in Mumbai will help me get through it. Turns out, Mumbai had other plans. It didn't give me time to write. It didn't give me time to form first impressions. By the time the first impression was about to register, it threw a completely different one at me, over and over again. I've almost been here for two months now and I still can't wrap my head about this metropolis the slightest bit. It feels like it chews you up and spits you out and then repeats the cycle. I feel like I've been through hell and back only to discover a new hell every time. It's not all bad though, the city has its beautiful moments, you just have to recognise them. Let me take a moment here, pause, compose my thoughts and go on:



The landscape:
Mumbai re-defines 'concrete jungle'. It sure has a lot of the concrete but it also has some of the jungle hidden away safely in nooks a corners. I live in quaint, almost village-like hole in Bandra, surrounded by trees and little or no cell phone reception at most times. It helps to feel cut off after a long day of work. It's easier when it's just me, all at sea. Speaking of the sea, where is it? I haven't seen it yet. It's everywhere surrounding this island but somehow doesn't make its presence known. I remember the sea at St Andrews, it drew you close. We'd battle through snow and wind to get to the beach and stare out at the water. It's difficult to stare at the water here when your vision is probably blocked by a (for the lack of a better word) working class couple making out or a hawker trying to sell you his ware. I'm not complaining, I'm just saying.
That's just one of the many facades of Mumbai though. I went to Mumbai CST the other day and discovered a whole new treasure to please my eyes. I wasn't aware that the station was a UNESCO World Heritage site. I was thus, pleasantly surprised upon seeing the beautiful Victorian architecture. Upon staring a little longer, I realised this wasn't the first time I'd admired its beauty. I remembered being there as a kid and finding it just as fascinating.

The commute:
If I wasn't complaining earlier, I sure as hell am complaining now. I can't stand the commute in Mumbai. It drains me everyday even though I only travel by cabs. I tried the train thing but my borderline agoraphobia set in to make sure I didn't do that again. I understand that getting around in a big city takes time but that doesn't mean I have to like it. Everyday, the commute is different. More than anything else, it's the cab drivers who determine whether I get home mildly tired or extemely furious.  On good days, I get from A to B without too many hassles. On other days, things aren't s great. The cab guys try to take me the long way around or drive like they're auditioning for the next Fast and the Furious movie. And the traffic? Well, lets just say that it gives ubiquitous a whole new meaning!



The people:
The people in Mumbai are like people everywhere, they're all different. It's difficult to stereotype them. A lot of them do however have one thing in common, they're veiled. For some reason, it's a little difficult to assess them, I can't decide whether those smiles are welcoming or slippery. I've met some very genuine people here who astonish me with their niceness but I've also met some chameleons who have have made this flower child go 'whoa'. This is definitely not a flower child's city. This city is tough. Its people are tough. They're all here to make it, with or without you.
I have friends here from college who've been like guardian angles to me, helping me get through the grime. Other than them though, it's hard to trust people here. Ironically, it makes me pull out the same veil I've accused them of wearing.


The job:
What can I say about the job? It's new, it's different. I know it's something I should be grateful for and I am. I just need to know the people better, it all comes down to that. I need to know the people I'm working with to make work fun. I guess that task falls upon me, to get to know them better, in professional capacity of course. Cause I've learned one thing about work life, people want to know you from 9 to 5, after that, everyone's got their own thing to do, no one's looking for friends. If you happen to develop a friendship along the way, well and good, but no one's going to make a conscious effort to become your friend, at least not initially.

So where is all this going, what was my first impression? I have no idea. I came here to learn and that's what I'm doing. I never said it would be structured learning.

Till next time,
Anuja P.